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HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS

(Swiss telephone country code is 41 - drop the zero (0) in the
city code prefix when dialing from the US.)

About hotels in Switzerland, and Western Europe generally:

You'll not find facilities exactly equivalent to what you
might expect from your US travel experiences, for the same
price.  I've found no equivalent to a $50 double at a Comfort
Inn.  You can find a 2-star in Zuerich for about twice as
much, but don't expect to receive an equivalent room.  There
are three factors at play.

First, the European tradition is different.  Rooms are usually
smaller, less brightly lighted, and perhaps somewhat less well
furnished.  (Many exceptions, especially if you like authentic
antiques.)  In cities you may find more noise.  Air
conditioning is rare.

Second, the dollar is soft against most currencies, and
certainly the Swiss Franc.  Your trip would be less expensive
if the Swiss had spent the 30 years mortgaging the future.
(The dollar bought 4.26 francs in the 1960s.  Today, you'll
get less than a third as many.  If the dollar had kept pace
with the franc, Switzerland would be an incredible bargain.)

Third, Swiss costs are higher.  I'm told the government sets
minimum wages for workers in hotels. The minimum wage for
chambermaids in Switzerland approaches $40,000 on an annual
basis!  Waiters make about $30,000.  Milk costs $4.50 a
gallon, and a pound of good steak goes for $15.  Electricity,
fuel and land cost far more than here.  All considered, the
value equations are different.

In their favor, you can expect more in the way of service and
attentiveness (presuming you're not the embodiment of the Ugly
American.)  European hotels use less space, recycle more, and
use less energy.  Who is to say whether European or American
hotels are "better".  They're different, and must be judged on
different scales.

4-star hotels are the closest approximation in my mind to what
we might call a "moderate" or "above average" hotel (what most
American businessment would be accustomed to).  But, to be
redundant, you'll not find the accomodations or price
equivalent.  Most Americans would find the accomodations
closer to a Red Roof Inn (better service, though), and the
price closer to a Hilton or Hyatt.  Even paying $400 per night
at a 5-star hotel, you may, in some cases, find yourself
thinking the price is too high by at least $100, though you'll
undoubtedly enjoy better service.

Net, you do have to adjust your sights when travelling in
Europe.  You'll likely have to pay somewhat more than
expected, and accept the fact that the accomodations won't be
exactly equivalent to what you'd get for that money in the US.

The majority of Americans will adjust to European hotels well,
cherish the differences and look forward to returning to their
favorite.

For the budget conscious, there are many low-priced
accomodations in Switzerland, including Youth Hostels, the
equivalent of B & Bs, guest houses, and holiday apartments.
(Muerren, a town of 300+, has 3,000+ beds for visitors, of
which only 500 are in hotels.)  Even here, the traveler
accustomed to cheap lodgings in Southern Europe should expect
to pay somewhat more.  And don't expect rock-bottom prices
with an unobstructed, clear, view of the Alps.  (Note:
Gimmelwald is an off-the-beaten-track exception.)  The local
tourist boards (ask the SNTO for their information packets and
numbers) will be most helpful.  All have fax, and conduct
business quite adequately in English.  Work directly with the
village tourist board in which you're interested.  The
Interlaken board, for example, purports to represent the
entire Jungfrau region, but has a reputation for a distinct
Interlaken bias.  In the Jungfrau region, the local tourist
offices are:
Interlaken    phone [phone]    fax [phone]
Muerren        phone [phone]    fax [phone]
Wengen        phone [phone]    fax [phone]
Grindelwald    phone [phone]    fax [phone]
Lauterbrunnen  phone [phone]  fax [phone]

Prices generally include service, taxes, and a Swiss-style
Continental breakfast (rolls, butter, jam, coffee, milk, tea
or chocolate, cheese, sliced cold meats, dry cereals, fruit,
often fruit juice, and usually muesli.)  Breakfast is rarely
included in Geneva or Zuerich.  In resort areas (and certainly
in the Jungfrau region) half-pension (evening meal)) is
available.  Sometimes the room price includes the evening
meal, sometimes not.  (Cost ranges from CHF20-40 pp.)  Some
hotels, at peak season, require you to take (read: pay for)
the meal.  More often than not it's optional.  In smaller
towns like Muerren, and even Grindelwald and Wengen, there are
not many alternatives, and you'll likely find the hotel
offering a good value in the market.  Four-star hotel meals
must include five courses.  The price includes no beverages
except tap water.  Unless the meal is required, you can
receive a credit for it if you wish to eat elsewhere on a
particular evening, if you give advance notice.  Noon is
usually adequate, sometimes later - ask.  Prices are from
official 1994 rates.  (Hotel Eiger prices are for 1995.)

Zuerich
Hotels
Baur au Lac and Dolder Grand are among the dozen best in the
world, and doubles start at CHF430.
Baur au Lac Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Dolder Grand Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Splugenschloss (Relais e Chateaux), St. Gotthard, and
Seiler Neues Schloss are excellent four-star hotels, with
doubles starting at CHF300
Splugenschloss Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
St. Gotthard Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Seiler Neues Schloss Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Seidenhof, alkoholfrei - your basic three-star hotel - spare
furnishings, but clean and adequate space.  Doubles from CHF190
Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Among two-star hotels, the Leonhard and Limmathof have been
recommended.  They are across the Limmat from downtown, but
conveniently near the main train station.  Doubles from CHF125
Leonhard Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Limmathof Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Restaurants
Agnes Amberg - very expensive, world-class
Haus zum Ruden and Zunfthaus zur Zimmerleuten are old
guildhouses on the Limmat river, with excellent Swiss and
Continental cuisine, and are expensive.
Walliser Channe is a reliable source of fondue and other
specialties from the Valais.  Moderate prices.
You can eat in the very good, inexpensive (for Zurich) crowded,
Zeughaus Keller for under CHF30.
In the summer, you can enjoy a moderately-priced meal with
music at the open-air Bauschaenzli near the lake.
You'll find modest prices and surprisingly good food in the
various Bahnhof Buffet venues in the Hauptbahnhof.  Included
in the grouping is the excellent Da Capo restaurant,
moderately expensive.

Stein-am-Rhein
Hotel Rheinfells (***) - 16th century hotel and restaurant.
Excellent freshwater fish.  Prices relatively moderate.
Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]

Murten (Morat)/Meyriez
Le Vieux au Lac (****) - a Relais e Chateaux affiliate.  Superb
gourmet cuisine (expensive) and fine overnight accomodations
from CHF270.  Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]

Vitznau (Lake Luzern)
Park Hotel Vitznau (*****) - a superb property with
outstanding service.  A good base for touring in the region.
Doubles from CHF420
Phone [phone] - Fax 83 19 97

Weggis (Lake Luzern)
Hotel Albana (****) - Very comfortable, and a good
(moderate-priced) base for touring the region.  Doubles from
CHF190.  CHF40 for half-pension (per person) (excellent)
usually required in peak season.
Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]

Glion-sur-Montreaux
Hotel Victoria (****) - good rooms and an excellent table,
doubles from CHF230 in the summer.
Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]

Geneva
Hotels
Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza (****) - located at the airport,
convenient to the airport train station for access to downtown
or elsewhere.  doubles from CHF336, though "deals" very often
available.
Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Cadettt Movenpick (***) - at the airport, a short (frequently
operated) van ride from terminal and train station.  (Do not
confuse with the more expensive Movenpick Radisson.)  Probably
the best buy in Switzerland, perhaps Europe.  This may be only
3-stars, but you'll find the rooms, space, furnishings, lobby
and restaurant to be first class.  Doubles from CHF144,
discounts often available.
Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
There are certainly many hotels in Geneva in more convenient
locations - these happen to be what we've experienced in
recent years.  Our favorite hotel of long-standing has
disappeared - a victim of urban 'progress'!  Geneva has
relatively more over-priced hotels and restaurants than any
city in the world - probably due to the fact that much travel
there is funded by taxpayers rather than by travelers' money.

Interlaken
Hotels
Victoria-Jungfrau (Grand Hotel) (*****) - grand old dame of
the region.  If you stay, be sure your room is >far< from
the exit to the nightclub, or you'll be up all night.  We
found the service unimpressive.  Doubles from CHF360 in the
winter, from CHF475 in summer!  Breakfast not included.
Beau-Rivage - (*****) - excellent setting on the river, and
near the Ost train station for excursions to the mountains.
We've not stayed here, but recommend this over the V-J.
Doubles from CHF310, 350 in the summer
Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Hotel du Lac (****) Very good hotel on the river, adjacent to
the Brienz boat station, and quite near the Ost train
station.  Very good dining room.  Doubles from CHF178, with
breakfast.  Dinner (excellent) usually required at peak times.
Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Restaurant
Schuh.  Nice setting on the main street adjacent to the
"village green".  Lots of outdoor tables in the summer.
Excellent food.  Moderately expensive.

Muerren Hotel Eiger (****) - Family-owned and -operated.
First-class accomodations, attentive service, helpful and
friendly staff and owners.  An excellent example of
traditional Swiss hospitality.  The more expensive rooms have
balconies with an exceptional view of the mountain ranges and
valley.  Double rooms with half-pension (5-course evening
meal) from CHF250.  Mountain-facing rooms (with balcony) are
15% more, and brand-new suites are available from CHF440.
(Children - in the same room - up to age 2 on a baby cot for
CHF20; 2-12 50% discount; from 12 years, 30% discount.  Meals
very good, and interesting and varied, even over a three week
stay.  Say hello to Walter and Annelis for us
Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Hotel Edelweiss (***) - A friend used, and found quite
satisfactory.  Good view.  Doubles from CHF200 with dinner.
Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Restaurant
Hotel Eiger Terrace, or the indoor Stuebli.  Good Swiss
specialties (or a hamburger if you wish).  Moderate prices,
though the Stuebli is pricey (but excellent) at night.

Gimmelwald
Gimmelwald is a 30 minute walk downhill from Muerren, and the
first stop on the cablecar from Stechelberg to the
Schilthorn.  There is an interesting Mountain Hostel, reputed
to be friendly if not perfectly spic and span that charges
CHF8 for a bed in 2- to 15-bed rooms.  (CHF2 for sheets.)
Phone [phone]
Walter Mittler's Hotel Mittaghorn has an international
reputation among budget travellers.  CHF60 for a double
with breakfast.  Also triples, quads, quints, and loft beds.
Phone [phone]

Grindelwald
We've not stayed at the Sporthotel Jungfrau, but a
correspondent found it "updated" and quite good.  2-stars.
Sfr156-176, with 1/2 pension at Sfr25 per person, usually
required in peak season.
Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Zermatt
Seiler Mont Cervin (*****) - Excellent luxury hotel with all
amenities.  Doubles from CHF 310 off-peak, 380 peak summer,
500 peak winter - rates include half-pension.
Phone [phone] - Fax [phone]
Seiler Monte Rosa (****) - This is virtually where the
Zermatt tourist trade and mountain climbing business began.
An excellent first class hotel.  Doubles start at CHF238
off-peak, 268 peak summer, and 368 peak winter, including
half-pension.  If you stay at a Seiler hotel, they give you
the option of dining at other Seiler properties in the evening
by prior arrangement.  (There are two others in town.)  The
Whymper Suite is excellent, and is about 80 francs more.
Phone [phone] - Fax 67 11 60

Copyright 1995 E. J. Gehrlein ([e-mail])